Yosemite to Echo Lake
Monday, 7/3/00: In Which I Get My Resupply Box and Head North Again through Yosemite
Ellie and I have lived together 20 years as of today, which is strange to write about since we’re several hundred miles apart, but such are the vagaries of love. I appreciate her willingness, understanding and support as I attempt to complete this hike. I took a picture of Heart Lake for her a few days ago, which probably won’t be exactly clear, but that’s the way it is with pictures and words that try to express such a strong emotion as love.
I slept in until six, took advantage of the flush toilet and gathered my gear rather leisurely, as the post office didn’t open until nine. A little after eight I joined the throng milling around the Store/Grill/Post Office and visited with various thruhikers I hadn’t met yet.
After I got my box I spent an hour sorting and repacking it and gathered up odds and ends to send home, so had to stand in line again to mail those. Finally about 10:30 I marched off under heavy pack for the nearby trailhead.
I started out walking with a couple from Port Townsend (they did tai chi while waiting at the Post Office) and Lamont. We had trouble finding the correct trail and at one point a ranger told us we were headed to the sewer plant, which I found delightfully apropos.
The first few miles followed the Tuolumne River downstream. My first serious backpacking trip with David Duncan and John Oldson ended coming up this same trail (or at least one in the same vicinity). Then I headed north up Cold Creek canyon, which was a steady but pleasant uphill. By this time everyone from the Post Office crowd was far behind except Lamont and John. After a couple of fords late afternoon I stopped for dinner and they went on and I saw them no more.
After dinner I put in another five miles to give me twenty for a day that started at 10:30. Not bad. The hiking ended with a steep descent into Matterhorn Canyon and ford, which left my shoes and socks a bit damp. I can see I’ll miss my sandals already.
Tuesday, 7/4/00: In Which I Hike Lethargically Through Some Tough Terrain
It was another very cold morning that I woke up to, and I finally struggled out of bed just before six. There was ice condensed inside the tarp and when I rinsed out a pair of underwear they froze solid. I was a the bottom of the canyon and the sunshine I cold see at the top seemed to be making things colder by driving more cold air down. My damp sleeping bag froze and the outside of my wet shoes also iced up. I finally gave up trying to thaw and dry everything, threw it all in the pack and took off.
Moving warmed me up and eventually brought me up to sunlight where it was considerably warmer. I climbed to Benson Pass at 10,200 feet, and then started the long descent to Benson Lake at 7500 feet. It was slow progress on mostly rocky tread and I didn’t reach bottom until nearly one. There I rested for more than an hour and dried everything out.
My only energetic hiking was from there up to Seavey Pass at 9200 feet, as I wanted to ford Kerrick Creek before dinner. From the pass I slowed once more as I coasted 3 ½ miles to the ford, which unfortunately was a wet one despite a 15-minute search for a dry boulder hop.
I had dinner on the far side and with cold wet feet and harassed by mosquitoes I climbed a mile or so to the top of the ridge where I hope it will not be quite so cold in the morning.
Wednesday, 7/5/00: In Which I Meet the Wandering Jew, Leave Yosemite and Pass the 1000-Mile Point on My Journey
There was only a light frost and the sun began filtering through the trees about 7 when I took off for my plunge into Stubberfield Canyon. I was able to execute a dry ford and then back up Macomb Ridge Pass and down to Tilden Canyon.
At this point the rigorous up and down of the past couple of days generally ceased and I began following gentler grades. I went past Wilma (also signed “Wilmer” by the unedgicated) Lake, and then made a 50-foot barefoot wade across Fall Creek. The water was thigh deep but fairly slow. While drying off I spotted one of those cursed helium balloons floating midstream but I wasn’t about to wade out again to get it.
The mosquitoes were bad here and only got worse as I went through several miles of damp meadows. At one break while I was trying to eat and swat mosquitoes at the same time a couple passed that introduced themselves as Shanti and the Wandering Jew. We passed two or three times more during day and conversed briefly due to bug conditions.
At the end of the meadows I climbed to Dorothy Lake and then Dorothy Lake Pass at the boundary of Yosemite National Park. The height and a very chilly wind ended the mosquito problem. It resumed but to a lesser degree as I passed by three lakes and stopped for dinner along an outlet creek near a collapsed bridge. From there I passed over a steel bridge over the West Fork Walker River and descended to Lower Walker Meadow where I made camp above the meadow, the wind still blowing rather briskly. I noted in the data book that I had now covered just over 1000 miles on the trail. That sounds like a long way but there is much more to come.
Thursday, 7/6/00: In Which I Hike at or above 10,000 feet Most of the Day Before Making a Final Descent Below That Level
There was enough a breeze that there was no condensation inside the tarp, so no hassle with drying things today. Cool but not freezing, I was able to get off to a 6:30 start heading up Kennedy Canyon where I quickly rose above treeline.
Most of the morning’s hike consisted of hiking between 10,500 and 10,800 feet crossing back and forth over the Sierra divide, usually over steep dropoffs. To add spice to the adventure, there were plenty of snowfields to cross where one slip would send me sliding hundreds of feet to the rocks below. Fortunately there were well-defined footprints in the snow so as long as I planted my feet carefully in them I was safe. It took concentration, which was exhausting and when I was finally down through the worst of it in early afternoon I stopped for a long break.
After that I dropped down further to cross Sonora Pass (the highway) at 9600 feet, then promptly started climbing back over 10,000 feet. Fortunately there was less snow on this side. I passed two hikers in camouflage headed south (it felt weird) and near the ridge could hear someone on the trail yelling something, but since no one knew I was there I figured it did not concern me.
I topped out at about 10,500 feet, followed the ridge at about that height for a couple miles and then began to drop, passing under 10,000 feet for the final time. I stopped for a celebratory dinner and a southbound hiker who started in Ashland joined me. We exchanged info, the best news being mosquitoes were bad up north in only two places of less than a day’s hike each. I hope he’s right.
From there I hiked down the East Fork Carson River, then climbed its canyon wall to a great campsite overlooking the canyon. There were clouds as I went to bed (usually they disappear by sunset), which combined with the wind made me wonder.
Friday, 7/7/00: In Which I Walk Through Some Spectacular Volcanic Scenery
No clouds when I woke. It was cold but not freezing and I was away by 6:30.
Since leaving Yosemite I had moved into a more volcanic area, which gave some interesting scenery to look at. Which was good because the conversation was limited to exchanges with three dayhikers near the road at Ebbets Pass, which I crossed late afternoon.
Due to the volcanic sediment some of the creeks were cloudy, much like the area around Mt. Hood or Mt. Adams. The most spectacular rocks came late in the day after I entered the Mokelumne Wilderness Area through a beautiful field of wildflowers. The guidebook said you could take a good picture in the westerly light, but it didn’t look good to me.
I camped near Eagle Creek and again there is a breeze, which I’m sure keeps the mosquitoes down. There were very few today, and it was generally a pleasant stroll for more than 25 miles.
Saturday, 7/8/00: In Which I Have a Frustrating Day But Make It to Carson Pass
It was about freezing when I got up, but I was used to it by now. I got ready to go and then walked back up the trail with camera to try the photo from last evening again. Better light, so hopefully it comes out better.
I returned to my pack, shouldered it and continued to wander through this strange volcanic land. I took several pictures, trying to capture the essence but doubt I succeeded. After a couple hours I was back into more “normal” High Sierra scenery, cutting along a high mountainside past a side trail to Raymond Lake. After this I began to see hikers headed this way, most with fishing poles. Then I saw equestrians and finally I looked at my watch and realized it was Saturday.
I dropped out of the wilderness near a series of lakes and dirt roads, seeing cars and more people. Then I climbed along the edge of the Nipple where the wind was ferocious and my second toe on each foot began to hurt.
I wanted to make it to Carson Pass where there was a phone at the USFS info center to confirm meeting Dad Sunday evening, but I just didn’t have much spring in my step. I made it down to a creek where I washing my feet (minor sores on the toes) and fixed dinner. By the time I finally left (6:30) I had four miles to go and was really frustrated that I had gone so slowly all day and then dawdled over dinner.
I was stomping, cursing and slamming my trekking poles, which I guess helped get me going up the ridge. When I topped the ridge I discovered I had to Climb Elephants Back (a mountain) even further and had to cross several steep snowfields. Eventually I made it to Carson Pass and the phone, called Dad and left a message on the machine, and called LiAnna and Ellie.
From there I retreated to a ridge ¼ mile back up the trail to spend the night.
Sunday 7/9/00: In Which I Reach Echo Lake and Meet Dad
Having only 16 miles to do I slept until 6, got ready to go and returned to the phone where I reached Dad and agreed to meet him at Echo Lake Resort between four and five.
I climbed the mountain by the pass and then coasted down the meadow surrounding the Upper Truckee River for several miles. There were a few ups and downs from there and eventually I met another volunteer PCTA trail crew. We chatted for a bit, I thanked them and then went on to lunch and to try to clean up.
From there the hardest part of the trail was crossing Highway 50, which I finally accomplished after waiting several minutes. I rolled into Echo Lake before three (it had been an easy hike) and immediately joined a group of thruhikers sitting around outside. I had a milkshake and chatted some with a couple from Vermont. Dad showed up about four and we head back to Fifi’s cabin.
I took a call from home, had a good shower and a great dinner. After dinner we talked, played triominoes and then I went to bed in a bed.