Sunday, 9/10/00: In Which I Leave Skykomish, Return and Finally Start Hiking But Of Course in the Rain
I was up at six getting my gear ready to go after a cold breakfast of oats soaked in milk. At eight I went to the local restaurant for another breakfast (pancakes this time) with Alan and Dave, where we were joined by Laura, Weathercarrot, Don (the Abominable Slowman) his friend John and Don Norton, the local trail angel. Don said he would give us a ride to Stevens Pass if we hurried because he was going to a Mariners game that day.
I dashed back to the motel, threw my gear into the pack, called Ellie and walked out to the truck with sandals and trekking poles in hand. I rode up in the back of his truck under the canopy (still raining, but forecast to let up in the afternoon) along with Dave. When we got there I got my pack and sandals out, but left my trekking poles, a fact I discovered about a minute after Don left.
Dave had a cell phone, so he called town and left a message to take my poles out of the truck. While Alan and Dave started hiking, I started hitching for Skykomish, a town I never planned to stop at, now to be visited twice. I got a ride down with a young woman in an old car and a ride back up in an even older car from a young mountain biker. So at noon I finally got going in the continuing light rain.
By 3 PM I was back at Janus Lake where I took a break under a tree to avoid some of the precipitation. After that I pushed on to Pear Lake, getting there about 6:40. I had covered 18 miles, my original goal for the day, despite losing two hours on the trekking poles fiasco. The rain was letting up but there were still showers as I put up the tarp, cooked and got ready for bed. There had been snow at the higher elevations on the ground but none falling from the skies.
Monday, 9/11/00: In Which the Sun Finally Appears and I See Glacier Peak
When I got up the rain had stopped, so I put my wet gear as much outside the pack as I could and started off by 7:15. The blue sky was inspiring as was the climb to a ridge with great views of Glacier Peak and other mountains in the area.
The brush was damp and the trail slippery all morning but the changing views more than compensated. Early afternoon I stopped at Reflection Pond and spread all my gear out there to dry. It was great to eat and rest in the sun! I hadn’t caught Alan or Dave but saw several other backpackers.
I reached Red Pass at 4:30 with great views, especially south where I saw Mount Rainier for the first time since the Goat Rocks. From there I descended into the White Chuck drainage and camped (with dry feet!) near Chetwok Creek.
Tuesday, 9/12/00: In Which I Go Up and Down Around Glacier Peak in the Clouds But No Rain Falls
I was up and off by seven with a few clouds moving in. Oh, no, not again, I thought. First major stop was Kennedy Creek where I wasted 15 minutes trying to find rocks I could cross on before I finally donned sandals and waded across.
From there it was a long climb culminating at Fire Creek Pass where there were still patches of snow on the ground as well as a snowbank from last year across the trail descending from there. I took a break, eating and watching the clouds thicken as a hiker ascended the trail I was to descend. She turned out to be Nona, a family doctor from Vancouver who allows thruhikers to camp in her backyard. I got her address in case I needed it and exchanged trail info with her. She had hollered “Thanks” to someone below about 1000 feet who had waited while she crossed the steep snowbank. Turns out they were Alan and Dave.
I went down and reached Milk Creek, then climbed back up another 2000 feet. As I climbed along that ridge I caught up with Alan and walked with him until I stopped for another break and he went on. It was a long descent along the Vista Creek drainage towards the Suiattle River. I ended up stopping at 6:15 at a nice site by Gamma Creek just before reaching the river.
I had done 25 miles and was planning to reach the bus to Stehekin Thursday morning and it was only 28 miles away so I had no urge to hurry on. It was still cloudy and I had kept feeling rain, but it was my paranoid imagination not real precipitation. By bedtime there was still no rain despite the persistent clouds.
Wednesday, 9/13/00: In Which I Clear the Last Pass in Glacier Peak Wilderness and Head Towards Stehekin
Miracle of miracles, the clouds cleared up overnight, but the forecast when I left Skykomish was for rain Thursday, so I didn’t let myself get too optimistic. I left by 7:20 and went down to the much-needed bridge over the surging Suiattle River.
From there it was a long climb up to Suiattle Pass, the last in this section. On the way I ran into Star Man, last seen at the Brown Mountain shelter in southern Oregon. He had got stuck in the snow at Fire Creek Pass and had to retreat via the road near Kennedy Hot Springs to Darrington. He had camped last night with Dave near the Suiattle River but had not seen Alan.
I took a break at the pass and began a long descent via the Agnes Creek drainage towards Stehekin. I passed several backpackers headed south and visited with a few. Most interesting were a couple of guys carrying electronic gear and a net doing a fish survey of the region for Fish and Wildlife.
When I reached 5-mile Camp at Pass Creek at 4:45 I decided to stop, since I as only 5 miles from the bus stop and it was coming at 9, I figured I could make it easily in the morning. I spotted a few high clouds as I got ready for bed, a sign of what was coming, I’m sure.
Thursday, 9/14/00: In Which I Visit Stehekin, Get a Good Forecast and Take Off To Finish the Hike
Just as I was dropping off to sleep last night, I sensed something, so I opened my eyes to discover I was eyeball-to-eyeball with a mouse, which apparently was planning to use my face as a launching pad to leap up to my food bags hung on the trekking pole. I swatted it away and apparently it did not return.
Despite that I slept fairly well, arose at 5:45 and was off by 6:45. I got to the site of the bus shuttle to Stehekin by 8:30 and met Starman there. The bus ride was slow as the driver stopped several places, once to let us see Rainbow Falls and then again at the renowned Stehekin Pastry Company where we filled up on goodies.
The resort was definitely upscale but it was hiker-friendly, as many people besides PCT hikers come here to hike. I got my box at the PO and then headed to the shower/laundry building where I found Alan and Dave. The laundry was spendy but the shower was free. I called Ellie and got a good forecast for the next few days (chance of afternoon thunderstorms), which got me fired up to finish.
I had a vegie-burger at the restaurant, ice cream at the store and then caught the 2 PM shuttle back to the trail. Ray from Seattle, a hiker I hadn’t met was waiting to ride to Stehekin, so we visited for a bit. By 3:15 Dave, Alan, Starman and I took off. Dave and I were soon ahead, where we ran into Pansy Ass and Shaggy heading south. She had pulled off at Cascade Locks to return home to BC, so was flipflopping back to Oregon, while Shaggy had finished and was yo-yoing as far as the Columbia.
After 12 miles and near dark Dave and I stopped along Bridge Creek at 6-Mile Camp. Alan showed up after dark. I was convinced there would be no rain so slept without tarp, though I did try to hang my food after dark. It was only high enough to stop a paraplegic bear, but hopefully keep away what I fear more: mice.
Friday, 9/15/00: In Which I Cross the Last Major Highway at Rainy Pass and Run Into Several Familiar Characters
I was up at 5:30 and off by 6:20, though Alan left ahead of me. I soon caught Alan and climbed on up Bridge Creek towards Rainy Pass where I came upon a couple of bright red mushrooms that I tried to photograph.
At Rainy Pass I crossed the last highway of the journey and had a hard time finding the trail, but eventually made it a couple hundred yards to a parking lot where I met Mike and Debbie and her parents. I caught up on the news and then began climbing into the last section. When I stopped for a break, Dave, Mike and Debbie caught up and we all hiked to Cutthroat Pass together.
There were great views all along here and we went on to Granite Pass and then began a long traverse towards Methow Pass. The three of them stopped for a break and I went on to the Pass where I met Captain Krumholz and the Menacing Vegetables, last seen at Donohue Pass in the Sierras. They had done most of California and decided to come up to Canada and hike as far south as they could.
I took a break at Golden Creek and headed on towards Brush Creek when Dave caught up again. Just before the creek we came upon the campsite of Meadow Ed, of all people. Shortly thereafter Mike and Debbie appeared and we all talked with Ed, the unofficial historian of the trail, and looked at this pictures and lists. Kevin and I were there, his fourth picture this year. In an amazing bit of synchronicity, I met Ed on my third day of the hike and now see him again on what likely will be my third day from the end of the hike.
We all got water at Brush Creek and headed on to Glacier Pass where we camped at Ed’s recommended site. At dark just after dinner who should appear again but Alan.
Saturday, 9/16: In Which I Hike In and Out of Fog and Spend My Last Night Near the Trail on Lakeview Ridge
Alan was off first and Dave and I followed at 6:40, hiking through the fog that had appeared. Mike and Debbie had camped nearby and seeing no sign of them we assumed they had gotten off early. Once we got above the fog there were some great photo ops, so Dave and I stopped to take advantage. We ran into Alan there also with his camera out.
Dave and I took off ahead of Alan, but within an hour Dave was going so fast (jogging!) that I lost him as we drifted in and out of the fog. I crossed Harts Pass (about 10 miles in three hours) in the fog with no sign of Dave. I stopped for a break beneath Slate Peak Lookout as the fog began to lift.
I followed several horses that got on trail near Harts Pass as far as Windy Pass where they stopped. I also saw several weekenders, many of them in camouflage toting rifles: hunting season is earlier in Washington than what I remember from Oregon. I was glad at least my pack was bright red even if my clothes were subdued tones.
I never caught Dave and saw no signs of Mike and Debbie. I climbed Woody Pass and traversed around to Lakeview Ridge at about 7000 feet where I decided to spend the night. Being my last night out on the trail I wanted to sleep out in the open. It got a great sunset and then the fog/clouds rolled over the ridge, dampening everything.
Sunday, 9/17/00: In Which I’m Treated to a Spectacular Sunrise, Reach the Border Monument and End the Hike
I woke before six to find everything wet with the dew/fog, but the sky now partly cloudy. I saw the glow of dawn on the horizon and decided to lie in my sleeping bag to watch. It was just a spectacular sunrise, lighting up various cloud layers and I lay there until seven enjoying it. I took a couple of pictures but know they won’t capture the majesty of the event.
I left my campsite, climbed to the high point on the ridge and then descended to Hopkins Lake. Shortly thereafter I caught up with Alan who spent the night at Woody Pass with Mike and Debbie (they had been behind me all day yesterday). Alan had passed while I was watching the sun rise.
When he stopped, I went on, worrying I would break a leg or get lost this close to the border. I spotted an odd clearcut about ten feet wide running a long ways and suddenly realized I was looking at the border. I quickly did the last quarter mile and reached the border monument at 10:23 AM. I exclaimed, “Yes! Yes! Yes!” as I crossed, then “Praise Allah, Buddha, Krishna, Christ and Dylan.” It was a great feeling to arrive exactly five months after leaving the Mexican border.
Alan arrived a few minutes later and we took several pictures. Shortly thereafter Mike and Debbie appeared and we did another round of photos. I signed the register in the monument, noting the many I knew who had already finished. Dave, it turns out, had hiked 40 miles yesterday and reached the border.
The hike to Manning Park Resort was anticlimactic. The route had changed and when we reached the end of the trail, we weren’t sure we were there. We walked up the road to the lodge where Dave had rented a room that he and Alan and I shared, while Mike and Debbie stayed in a room with her parents.
After a shower I called Ellie to report the conclusion of the hike, then shared a half-gallon of ice cream with Alan. All of us had a big dinner together where we also met Angela and Duffy (last seen boarding the ferry at Vermillion Valley Resort) for a while. Not being the life of any party I left first to head for bed at 9:15 with Dave and Alan following by 10.
Epilogue: Next day I got a ride to SeaTac Airport with Angela, Duffy and his parents. There the strap on my pack tore loose. I guess it knew the hike was over. I took the bus to Tacoma, where I just caught the train to Portland, where Ellie was waiting to take me home at long last.