Crater Lake to Big Lake
Wednesday, 8/9/00: In Which We Hike Past Mount Thielson and On to Maidu Lake
Despite good intentions, Rochelle, Yaser and I got a slow start from Mazama Campground and didn’t reach the trailhead where I stopped until almost 9 AM. Yaser set a fast pace which Rochelle and I were hard-pressed to match. We met some dayhikers who missed the trail up Mt. Thielson, so I stopped to redirect them. At that cutoff I talked to another person who had been up that morning but hadn’t seen Kevin and Kjersten, so I figured they were waiting at Thielson Creek.
We met them there about noon and stopped for a break. A large horse party passed us there. The volcanic sediment in the creek had clogged Kevin’s filter, so I pumped water for everyone.
From there we went on until nearing Tipsoo Peak. Kevin, Kjersten and Yaser climbed it, while Rochelle and I went on towards Maidu Lake, which we arrived at just after 5:30, a little behind the horse group. We ended up camping near where I stayed three years ago, as the other three showed up fairly soon thereafter.
We had seen thunderheads building all afternoon and after dinner we caught a few sprinkles. Standing by the lake near sunset was spectacular with lightning forking through salmon-colored clouds while nearby was the tail of a rainbow and clouds of gray, white and purple. All of this was above a lake of dark green. I’ve stayed at Maidu Lake twice now and both times have been treated to incredible natural displays of light.
To the patter of a brief shower on my tarp I climbed into the sleeping bag and went to sleep.
Thursday, 8/10/00: In Which We Travel Through Rain and Hail to One of the Windy Lakes
I slept in until 6:30 and was still first one up. I aroused everyone about 7, but like any large group it took until nearly 9 to get ready to go. On the way up the hill back to the PCT we ran into a ranger who warned us not to start campfires due to the extreme fire danger. I suggested he talk to the horse party across the lake.
We stopped at Tolo Camp to get water at the spring below there. While eating lunch the horse party, now swollen to about 15 animals, passed us. We passed them at a break within the hour and then they passed us (the last we saw of them, praise the lord) as we took a break just before Windigo Pass.
The weather had turned cloudy and as we climbed up from Windigo Pass a brief thunderstorm hit and we covered up as best we could. As we reached the ridge near Cowhorn Mountain, Kevin spotted smoke from lightning strikes and the smokejumper plane, giving us his professional analysis of the situation.
From there I went to try and find the route to one of the Windy Lakes. I stopped when a big hailstorm hit, huddled near a tree as the trail turned white from pea-sized hail. The rest of the group caught up with me and we headed cross-country to the lake.
Not great camping or scenery but we were wet and tired, so quickly erected shelter and got dinner going. Everyone was in bed before it even got really dark.
Friday, 8/11/00: In Which I Exchange Hikers at Summit Lake and Camp Under Diamond Peak
It was a little cooler in the morning (though no rain overnight), and we didn’t have far to go to reach our rendezvous at Summit Lake, so no one including me got up early to get going. We left about 9:30 and had an easy hike to Summit Lake, reaching there a little after 11.
We were supposed to meet Sid and Jim about noon, so we relaxed, ate and swam or washed up in the lake. Sid showed up with a cooler full of food, so we ate some more. About one, Sid, Jim and I took off hiking, leaving the other four to ferry the car ahead to Odell Lake where they would meet Carol and Ellie with the other car.
Sid and Jim talked like they would hike slowly, but maintained a steady pace (just like the previous group) that ate up the miles. Along the way I got caught up on local land use politics and Sid and I had a lively disagreement with Jim over federal grazing subsidies.
We found a spring at the base of Diamond Peak and made camp there. It had been clear all day and we hoped to see the meteor showers if woke up early enough tomorrow morning after the moon set and before the sun rose.
Saturday, 8/12/00: In Which We See Lights at Night But Not Meteors and Arrive at Odell Lake
About 2 AM I heard loud voices and saw flashlight beams, but they quickly vanished. In the morning I accused Jim and Sid of continuing the grazing debate, but they laughed and said it was a couple of hikers. I’ve heard of thruhikers stretching the day, but never quite like that.
It was a beautiful morning and we got going by 8:30. We had a level traverse below Diamond Peak to the Mount Yoran area and from there wound in and out among ponds and small lakes. There were mosquitoes but they were tolerable. Around noon we stopped at an overlook of Odell Lake, then dropped down to the Willamette Pass where Sid’s car was.
By 1 PM we were in Trapper Creek campground where Ellie and LiAnna greeted us. We had a big lunch and then Jim and Sid left for home, while I went to the resort for a shower. On returning I sorted my resupply box and visited with LiAnna. Ellie came back from the resort with Lisa, a section hiker who might be able to help with resupply in northern Washington.
LiAnna made noodles for dinner and we tried to finish the remaining food. We played Pinochle in the tent until we got tired of it and then got ready for bed.
Sunday, 8/13/00: In Which I Leave Odell Lake and Reach the Three Sisters Wilderness Area
I got too hot sleeping in the tent at the campground and woke feeling rather lethargic. Ellie and LiAnna drove me out to the trailhead about 7:30 and hiked with me for a mile or so. There was water in the ditch near Highway 58 and Ellie was not happy when got her feet wet (as did I).
After wishing LiAnna well at college and saying goodbye I started out. First notable spot was the three Rosary Lakes, very pretty. There were only two or three parties there, surprising given their beauty and proximity to the road. From there I climbed and then ambled along the crest in forest.
I passed a thruhiker who later I found out was Hugh from Ohio, as we passed each other several times. I also caught Jim and Ginny at lunch reading their books. Weathercarrot had caught them but was now off-trail in Eugene with friends suffering from diarrhea.
After my lunch I walked through many miles of burned forest, probably thousands of acres. Maybe it is the Warner Creek fire I heard about. Eventually the burned area with purple flowers as the main vegetation ended near Taylor Lake. I then crossed a road and entered the Three Sisters Wilderness Area by Irish Lake.
I made dinner at Riffle Lake and hiked on to camp at Stormy Lake. There are many lakes, ponds and drying mudholes in this area, so the mosquitoes (no doubt reduced from July swarms) are plentiful. A brisk, cool breeze where I camped kept them mostly away and me snuggled deep in my sleeping bag.
8/14/00: In Which I Finish the Lake/Pond Area and Move Into the Region with Views of the Mountains
It was still and a bit nippy when I got up, so I ware my parka as I went through the morning routine. The lake was smooth as glass, so as I left I got a picture of Irish Mountain reflected in the lake.
The day was mostly a lake walk as the trail wove its way through many small lakes and ponds. Hugh and I passed a couple times until he cut off mid-afternoon to resupply at Elk Lake Resort. I passed five Boy Scouts with three leaders heading south and stopped to chat with one leader who asked a lot of questions so he could pass info on to the Scouts about thruhikers.
I had dinner at Sisters Mirror Lake but the wind was too brisk for any mirror effect. I had some nice views of South Sister as I headed towards Rock Mesa and its runoff creek, near which I decided to spend the night. No wind this evening so it seemed warmer and there were enough mosquitoes to raise the Bug Bivy.
Tuesday, 8/15/00: In Which I enjoy Great Views in All Directions But End the Day Trudging Near McKenzie Pass Lava Fields
It was cold and clear when I got up about 6 and with hands in pocket occasionally I got off about 7. I was under South Sister and as I advanced north I had great views of the sun hitting Middle Sister, especially one with a meadow of wildflowers. To the west I got a great view of the Husband.
Next stop on the scenic tour was Obsidian Falls, a small waterfall in an area with a lot of black, shiny rock. Beyond that were good views of jagged North Sister and adjacent Little Brother. Through all this I saw only about a half dozen backpackers but near Glacier Way Trail I ran into about nine dayhikers. Once past there, however, I had the trail to myself for a few hours.
I had lunch at Minnie Scott Spring, relaxing to the point of taking off my shoes and socks. I stocked up on water and began hiking through lava fields with great views of Mount Washington, Three-Fingered Jack, Mount Jefferson and Mount Hood. The lava was tough on my feet and fortunately I got back into forest for a few miles around the Matthieu Lakes.
About a mile from Highway 242 at McKenzie Pass the lava was back, rougher than ever, making for wretched hiking. Just before hitting it I met a couple dayhikers who invited me to their house in Sisters, but I had to decline because of meeting Marlon tomorrow morning.
Across the highway I met a woman doing Oregon southbound who said the lava fields went on for another four miles, which is about what the guidebook said. I told her it wasn’t much better the way she was headed.
I stopped shortly thereafter for dinner. After eating I continued on until I got back onto forested ground where I sopped for the night. I have about 8 miles to go to Big Lake for resupply and hopefully a visit with Marlon.