Big Lake to Cascade Locks
Wednesday, 8/16/00: In Which I Resupply at Big Lake and Race On to the Mount Jefferson Wilderness Area
Having only about 8 miles to go I did not get off to an early start nor did I maintain a rapid pace once I got going. The spring along the way appeared to be dry but I did not search since I had enough water to make it to the Big Lake Youth Camp where my resupply and meeting with Marlon were scheduled between 11 and 1.
I got there just before 11 and asked permission to sit outside on the bench to sort my box while I waited for Marlon. After sorting and eating I read the guidebook, noting that Russell Creek was potentially a dangerous ford with a pre-11 AM crossing recommended to minimize the impact of glacial meltwater. This creek was nearly 40 miles away and a rational approach would be to take a day and a half to get there and cross in the early morning. But after my desultory pace of the last few days I was looking for a challenge and decided to try to get there by tomorrow at 11 AM.
As 1 PM approached it seemed obvious that Marlon wasn’t going to make it, so I filled up with water and took off with renewed vigor. I crossed Highway 20 at Santiam Pass by 3 and entered the Mount Jefferson Wilderness Area. By 5 I was below 3-Fingered Jack and had dinner there.
After that I saw a couple hikers, one spending the night on the saddle by the NE face of Jack—a great viewpoint. I hustled on and as it got dark I made it to Rockpile Lake, more than 18 miles from Big Lake. I made camp in the dark, using my flashlight more than I have in the past.
Thursday, 8/17/00: In Which I Reach the Anticlimactic Ford, Fly Through the Rest of Mt. Jefferson Wilderness and Reach Resupply at Ollalie Lake
Moonlight off Rockpile Lake helped me get up and going. I climbed up to a ridge and got some great views of Mount Jefferson and began fording a few smaller creeks before the big Russell Creek ford.
By mid-morning I knew I wouldn’t get there until noon, but I saw a few coming the other way so figured it couldn’t be too bad. Imagine my surprise when Russell Creek turned out to be a rock hop—didn’t even get to wash my feet! I went on to the next creek near Jefferson Park (and lots of dayhikers) where I stopped for lunch.
At this point I decided to try to make it to Ollalie Lake Resort for resupply (about 13 miles away) even though I wasn’t sure when it closed. The walk through Jefferson Park was a way-finding challenge as there were many unmarked trails created by the many visitors enjoying the lakes and great views of Mount Jefferson.
I climbed form there to Park Ridge with great views back to Jefferson and ahead to Ollallie Butte and Mount Hood. Coming off the ridge I had several snow fields to cross, nothing real dangerous but kind of jarring since it had been 6 weeks since I’d seen this much snow. The route wound among various lakes and ponds and I eventually reached Ollalie Lake a little after 6.
The woman at the store/resort expressed doubt that she could find my box among the 150+ she had in back but said she would try if business slowed. I ate ice cream and cheese and drank root beer while she successfully searched. I took the box to a nearby picnic area where I sorted it and made dinner.
At this place I was about 104 miles from Cascade Locks, but figured I had a chance to make there by Sunday night. So I took off and got in a couple of miles before dark. It wasn’t much of a campsite (right by the trail) but it would have to do.
Friday, 8/18/00: In Which the Rain Returns and I Cover My Most Mileage of the Trip—38 Miles
Today looked to be a long, mostly level (at least no big climbs) hike between wilderness areas. I ran into Mike and Debbie again mid-morning and he mentioned the possibility of rain according to a forecast he had heard. There had been cirrus clouds late yesterday and more high clouds thickening today, but I tried to ignore them.
I walked with them for quite a ways off and on, including a mid-day break at Warm Springs River. Past there we met Chris, a UK hiker, who was getting out his rain gear for the sprinkles that started about then. It rained softly off and on most of the afternoon and I pulled off early for dinner at Clackamas Lake campground where I was able to cook under a picnic bench protected largely from the rain by a big tree.
I saw none of the other three as I went on, even at the vicinity of Little Crater where Mike said they might camp. Still not dark I went on uphill, which proved to be a mistake as I was still on sloped ground as it got dark quicker than I was used to with the cloud cover. I finally found a reasonably level spot though it was dished and would accumulate water where I slept if serious rain fell. It was too dark to go further so I decided to take my chances there. The generally easy terrain for the day had allowed me to hike 38 miles, my most ever.
Saturday, 8/19/00: In Which I Reach Timberline Lodge and Find the Fords Around Mount Hood Are Not as Bad as Last Year
It wasn’t raining when I got up a little late, but still cloudy and damp. I hiked this area last year so knew what to expect. It was a long steady climb towards Mount Hood. The wind was nippy and there were occasional showers, though not so bad I couldn’t wash up a bit at one stream. The most difficult hiking was in some sandy areas.
Near Timberline Lodge I began seeing dayhikers out despite the brisk weather. At the lodge complex by 1 I went into the cafeteria building to use the phone and thaw out. Ellie was off taking LiAnna to college, so I left a message telling her I would be in Cascade Locks between 7 and 8 on Sunday, a goal I felt I could make. Food was expensive in the cafeteria so I just ate stuff I brought, having plenty of it.
I started back out around 2 amid many dayhikers and some backpackers. I took the Paradise Park loop listed in the data book as the trail, which was full of wildflowers. I hiked most of it with Dan, a dayhiker from Seattle who wants to do the PCT, so had many questions, including the weird one of what church I attended.
After leaving him I continued on the Timberline Trail which circles the mountain and hiking traffic thinned. The Sandy River log bridge was gone (the river appeared to have changed course somewhat), but I was able to cross on a downed tree. I was dreading the Muddy Fork fords that were bad last year, but when I got there they proved to be easy rock hops—what a difference a year makes!
The rain hadn’t slowed me but the up and down of the river canyons did, so I barely made it by dark to the junction where the PCT leaves the Timberline Trail and took a campsite there. I hadn’t stopped to eat, so had hummus and crackers in the tent as it got dark. I have nearly 35 miles to go, but it is essentially downhill, though brushy in places I recall.
Sunday, 8/20/00: In Which I Thrash Through the Wet Brush and Eventually Make It to Cascade Locks
I woke up early but lay in my sleeping bag too long so it was 6:40 before I loaded up my damp gear and got going. There are few thrills to equal putting on damp socks and then inserting your feet into cold, wet shoes.
There was no rain this morning and the sun was even out through the clouds more often than not, but I was much wetter than the previous two days. That was because of the thick brush the trail runs through in this area, which soaked me to the waist. I met a few hikers, one of whom was wearing a trash bag to protect his legs from moisture. A real fashion statement!
I made slow progress, partly due to the brush and poor trail, but also because I felt it shouldn’t take much effort. By 1:30 I was at Wahtum Lake where I ate and pumped water, still imagining I was doing fine. As I climbed (yes, up) to the Benson Plateau I began to realize an accelerated pace was necessary.
By 5 I started down into the Gorge with 7 miles to go, figuring I could average 3.5 miles per hour and be there by 7, so I stopped for short break. By 6 I had finished most of the descent and still had 4 miles to go over rocky up-and-down terrain I had completely forgotten.
I staggered into Cascade Locks at 7:30, much chastened about my hiking speed for the day. Ellie had clean clothes and lots of food waiting, which was much appreciated. Another woman (Susan) was waiting for a couple of Czech hikers I’d passed earlier, who eventually got out after dark. The car ride was strange, but it was good to be going home for a few days rest.