Mt. Baden-Powell to Agua Dulce
Tuesday 5/9/00: In Which I Climb Mt. Baden-Powell (Scout’s DisHonor)
I slept above all the clouds and woke to a sunny day. As I started out hiking the day’s main objective — Mt. Baden-Powell, named after the founder of the Boy Scouts — came into view. Even though it is 9400 feet there was little snow in sight and my hopes rose.
They fell at a campground where I stopped to get water. The place was closed (so what) but the water was turned off. Just before arriving there I saw my largest wild mammal of the trip — a coyote. He preceded me down the trail a ways before heading into the brush.
As I left the dry campground I ran into two backpackers headed my way on a 3-day trip. I wished them well and headed on towards the next spring, halfway up the mountain. The water was good by the time I got there, but the snowdrifts were also getting more common, and I had another 1500 feet in elevation to climb.
In a little while I ran into two women descending from their dayhike ascent of Baden-Powell who told me there was another PCT hiker a couple hours ahead of me. Their footprints and his gave me the general direction (up!). The trail appeared only rarely where the sun melted the snow over a section. Near the ridge top the snow melted and I found the sign pointing the continuation of the PCT. I usually don’t go for climbing mountains but the top of this one was a couple of hundred yards away without snow and having floundered through the snow to get here I decided to ascend.
Mind you I have pretty negative feelings towards the Boy Scout organization, which goes beyond the current political battles about discrimination against gays and atheists. As a youth I belonged to Cub Scouts and was ready to go on to Boy Scouts. I attended a couple of different troops at home to find one to join. At both the meeting started with everyone standing at attention for what seemed like an hour for uniform inspection. What a waste of time, apparently so the scoutmasters could relive their military days and play drill sergeant. My anti-militarism was probably born then.
Anyway at the top is this ugly four-sided monument with the directions inscribed (why, I wonder, since all scouts carry compasses, no doubt), in one-word themes (God, Country, Self and Family) with a little scouting wisdom beneath each theme. God had already lost His ‘G’ to some hammer-wielding vandal. Country had the Scout principles beneath (trustworthy, kind, reverent, etc.), so I chose that face for my non-destructive statement.
From there I returned to the trail, donned my silver moccasins (the name of the Scout’s trail in this area as the PCT coincides with it for 25 miles around here) (I would have been better off with snow boots) and set off. Unfortunately I was on the north side of a ridge running between 8500 and 9000 feet so thrashed around in the snow for another two hours before descending into an area where there was more trail than snow. At the start of the day I figured to hit camp by 5, but as it was it was after 6:30 and another rushed evening meal and camp set up. But I was better off than the two backpackers I’d seen earlier who staggered into camp about dark (8) thanking me for making the tracks they had followed through the snow.
Wednesday, 5/10/00: In Which I Play Tag with State Highway 2
I was up and gone before the two late arrivers stirred from their tent. I had to pass through a few small patches of snow in the first hour, but hopefully I am done with that stuff until I hit the Sierras where I will be better prepared.
I spent most of the day weaving back and forth across Highway 2, the Angeles Crest Highway that runs through the middle of the San Gabriel Mountains. There is something disconcerting about crossing highways, but there was little traffic so it wasn’t bad.
After my final crossing of Highway 2 the PCT parted ways with the Silver Moccasin Trail and I headed north to Sulphur Springs Campground. Like all campgrounds in this section it was empty, and the water tasted good despite the name. Clouds and the wind (blowing most of the day) chilled me before I could get camp set up. It is the coldest it has been since Mount Laguna.
Thursday, 5/11/00: In Which I See Ice Again and Not Even a Killer Bee Story Can Warm Me
I awoke to a heavy frost. Not as bad as Mount Laguna, but it delayed me an hour as I tried to get warm enough to break camp. The wind came back up after dying off last night to allow the frost and I walked in long sleeves all morning.
Midday I met a couple of thruhikers (man and woman) headed south. They had started before me and when they got to Idyllwild decided head north to hike back in less snow. They reported no snow from here to Walker Pass (hurrah!) And gave me tips on water and accommodations ahead. I shared my info on snow and water and we parted.
I stopped at the trailhead near Mill Creek Ranger Station that had piped water and cleaned up a little. I am slightly cleaner but my clothes are beyond washing by hand except to rinse the sweat out. I filled up with water headed for a dry camp about six miles away, still chilled by the wind. On the way I met an old man with his dog dayhiking and we talked a bit. He was all worked up about the killer bees that had attacked some woman in Palm Springs and wondered if hikers would have to start wearing bee gear. I said as cold as it was today I wasn’t worried about bees and was more concerned about ticks and rattlesnakes anyway. He wanted to talk more but I was getting cold and politely took my leave.
The camp spot is on a ridge with some sun that helped but it is still cold. I’d like to get an early start tomorrow so I hope it doesn’t freeze again.
Friday, 5/12/00: In Which I Reach Soledad Canyon and Turn Down a Chance to Play Bingo
No frost but it was still quite cold when I got up. I woke with a sore throat and worried I was getting something, but it went away after I drank some water.
This was my last day in the San Gabriels and it was mostly spent going downhill, so I made pretty good time. The wind kept a nip in the air until midday when I was getting lower and arrived at the North Fork Ranger station.
The ranger there (Todd) is real friendly to thruhikers, even letting them stay at the ranger station, a service I didn’t need. He also serves as advance agent for another trail angel in Agua Dulce, Donna Saufley, who insists that all thruhikers stay at a mobile home on their property. According to Todd she scouts the streets of Agua Dulce to make sure that none get past her. Given that reputation and the fact I could use another rest day (I’m still ahead of schedule), I let Todd call Donna and tell her I would be there Saturday. He also told me I could spend the night at one of the RV parks in Soledad Canyon for $5 including shower.
This was about where I wanted to stop but wasn’t sure where I would stay, so decided in my condition a shower itself was worth $5. After the shower I got invited to a community dinner where for $3.75 you got spaghetti and meatballs, a roll, salad and ice cream. I took the spaghetti without sauce, which pleased one of the other diners (generally seniors discussing health issues) who had also done the same. I was invited to the Bingo game after dinner, but declined because my bedtime hour (about 8) was imminent. I did make a call home and talked to Ellie and LiAnna before setting up the tarp and getting ready for bed.
Saturday, 5/13/00: In Which I Arrive in Agua Dulce Where the Water Isn’t Sweet But the Hospitality Is
There were bright security lights from around the RV Park and train went by on the nearby tracks about 2 AM, but all-in-all I slept well. The need for certain bodily functions awoke me at 5:30 AM as usual, but instead of digging a hole I had to trek across the RV Park, a reasonable compromise. Though I was in no hurry to leave, having only 10 miles to go today, it was cool and I was up, so I decided the best way to get warm was to get moving.
This was definitely a desert section with even the chaparral struggling to grow. The most interesting part of the hike was after I passed through a 500-foot long tunnel under the Antelope Freeway/Highway 14 (real weird going from bright sunshine, getting darker and darker until bright light at the other end) and arrived in the Vasquez Rocks formations. They are reddish/pink rocks sticking up throughout the area, their layers tilted at about 30 degrees from level. As I got closer to the town of Agua Dulce, I entered a County Park with several people, including a few on horseback.
From the park the trail follows roads about a mile into downtown Auga Dulce (its about 1 block long). I’d heard this town liked hikers but was surprised that the market (also the PO where you get your resupply packages) has a 10-foot banner in front that reads “Agua Dulce Welcomes Pacific Crest Trail Hikers.” I got my box, some carrots and a paper to read and sat out front on a bench to relax, even answered a couple of questions about the PCT from the curious.
Then I called the Saufleys, the folks I had been told about and Donna Saufley came right down and picked me up. When we got to her place about a mile from downtown, I met her husband Jeff and the six dogs and was shown to the trailer adjoining their house where hikers stay. Turns out Steve (who I met Monday leaving I-15) and his girl friend Melissa (who had just showed up) were also here, and in fact about ready to leave to hike 10 miles of the trail (Donna gave them a ride out and they were hiking back here).
I had a nice shower, donned some donated clothes while Donna (who insisted and I didn’t object) washed all my clothes. Clean again!
They have a lot of PCT-related materials, which I looked over and then fixed dinner (what I would have had last night if I hadn’t eaten at the RV Park). However, I am realizing that tomorrow I have an opportunity to cook, so am going to the store in the morning to round up some ingredients. A great place to stay and I will spend one more day here.
Sunday, 5/14/00: In Which I Rest in Agua Dulce and Cook a Real Meal
I slept in until 6 AM and got up and cooked oatmeal that was here. I reviewed the water info Donna had accumulated and made plans about where I would stay in the next section, which notoriously is the hottest and driest part of the PCT.
Steve and Melissa (who came back last night after I went to bed) got up and we chatted a bit and then I walked to town for groceries and a paper. By the time I got back they were ready to leave for Kennedy Meadows to hike this way and we all took pictures of one another and they left.
I read the paper and then another thruhiker (Adam) who started after me showed up. He is trying to finish by September 1, so didn’t want to spend the night, but did shower and wash his clothes, as well as talk a lot. He hiked the AT last year and gave me some interesting comparisons about the two trails (the AT has 3000 thruhikers per year, essentially a walking party).
I watched the Blazer playoff loss to the Jazz and then cooked tortillas and beans. Great to be able to cook something I love. I made extras, which I froze and will carry for dinner tomorrow. I called Ellie and LiAnna and then gave Carol a call for Mother’s Day.
Following is what I wrote in the Saufley’s hiker memory book:
“I started this hike to ‘get away from it all’ and see some varied and interesting country. The desert certainly has surprised me with its variety and wonders and I have gotten away from all the hassles of work and the city in general. I thought when I left that getting away from people was important too, but after four weeks on the trail I am once again realizing how important it is to connect with others. And it is the warmth and generosity of people like you, Donna and Jeff, that have helped me to see that. Thanks for your wonderful hospitality. I hope all who follow enjoy their stay as much as I have.”